... mus with me, you with the tram ...
... probably lost, indeed, surely lost on the instructions of a dentist, German, albino, drug addict, homosexual and his concubine who is a lifer ...
the stupid joke of the cult film Marrakech Express continues to haunt me,
to turn around wildly for the head ...
are the last hours of the night or early in the morning if you prefer, out of a
Casablanca still asleep, I fall asleep too in the departure lounge, waiting for the first train for Fez;
I'm going, once again, to lose in Africa.
through the ville nouvelle of Fez, as is usually called here, in North Africa, the European part of the city, through the Bab Bou Jeloud later, in the medina, the old town, the Arab side, still surrounded by high walls, on which open doors impressive still used as reference points, this is the living part of town, narrow cobbled streets, where shops are in full swing, a succession of botteguzze selling food, meats, poultry, vegetables, clothes, textiles, handicrafts, and all sorts of ... Maroquinerie ; on every corner and shabby makeshift banquet, amid an overwhelming flood of people who contracted, screaming, purchase, pushing carts, catching unsuspecting tourists - and then again mopeds, vans, cars filled to capacity, overloaded donkeys, kids ... he who hesitates is lost ... in the end, the opposite end, tanneries, guided by the smell you coming, in huge tanks, work immersed to the waist, tanned and dyed - using lime, dung and urine as fixers for the colors - the smell is nauseating.
the following morning on the terrace for breakfast, with his usual calm throughout Africa, a woman comes to clean it - it had rained the night - and finally, then, the breakfast - I find his out to my cost not buy anything to eat or to drink until the evening, we are right in Ramadan.
'm going to explore the medina, I just hook up the usual faux guides , looks like a cute little boy - but it just seems - it combines more than Bertoldo, better change your job.
the early hours of the afternoon driving with liquid and return the sum agreed in the medina, I saw a nice pair of earrings and I want to see to negotiate the price.
during the negotiations also led me to see the goldsmith - occupational safety and 626 are the masters!
shortly after a violent storm broke out which quickly transforms the streets into torrents - I look around, a roof, a step that seems high, there is no one there, I take this opportunity - I find myself almost immediately with the water to the ankles and wait for a ray of sunshine ... that's why there was no one there!
the storm ceases, around a little, 'the song of the muezzin is already my legs under the table outside a restaurant while another storm is about to erupt; soup, brochettes de poulet , rice, french fries, horn gazelle - it rains heavily.
races are at the dawn routierre , the bus is there, get ready ... 8.00 am before you start.
I enjoy, in the meantime, the people who get on board to make the rally, a blind preacher at first, then a seller of snacks, and more another vendor that demonstrates the properties of its miraculous cream - no one is left cheated - most recently a salt
vu cumprà original Moroccan with a large collection of watches and sunglasses - and also manages to place someone.
travel flows peacefully, people going up, people are coming down, the usual bickering ... arrival in Beni-Mellal, continues to Azilal now ... is about to burst yet another time, like yesterday Fez, in short, becomes a Azilal stream.
still fifty kilometers to Zouiat Ahansal, I have an appointment there,
a bit 'higher up, the village of Taghia;
but the road is paved, there is a step to overcome, given the weather situation in the last few days are hoping to find a grand taxi - a taxi - to go up: I immediately remove any ambition - the road is broken, in poor condition - no part.
exchange program, I get on a bus to Marrakech;
go down to the races routierre main orient me, I know a little 'the city, there have been other times, I try to reach Diemme el-Fna, after a while 'I see Kartoubia, unmistakable arrived.
Square prepares for the evening jugglers and snake charmers give way to the multitude of food and wine kiosks , once reserved for local use and consumption now to more adventurous tourists.
the next day I wake up in a Marrakech unusually quiet, deserted, sleepy, request an explanation of one of the few shops open, "today is a holiday," he said "yesterday is over Ramadan."
vague for a city unknown to me, different, anonymous, no guides, no canvassers, the square is empty, even the snakes are still asleep, I wander to the souq, deserted streets, too broad, few tourists, perplexed, almost the disarray;
transformation in Marrakech I know only begin when night falls, the square
light, becomes a chasm,
the Marrakech ever - again,
after more than two decades, Africa has managed to amaze me.
Sgambati a good morning coffee, the ticket ..., the bus leaves almost immediately, and the trip is pleasant, rushing out of Morocco - Essaouira
, Terraudant, Ouarzazate -
back of the bus in a hen starts to squawk while, during the stops, giving way beggars, blind, and even a minstrel, the jimi hendrix , pulling notes out of tune crawling and grinding with a bow on a rough mandolin and tastings are accompanied by a chant - the end reproaches and curses, directed at those who did not gives a dime!
always on the bus, go to the High Atlas, just off the rocks and stones, el ' argan , similar to the olive tree, extremely versatile, feature of this area of \u200b\u200bMorocco, which is vital for the local economy ; provide firewood, fodder for goats, and a precious oil is extracted from its nuts, always Berber women use it for cooking, as an ointment spreads to body care, excellent for wounds, rheumatism and say, delicious on salads.
ground at all, just rocks and stones, poor goats, here you see them climbing trees to eat the leaves.
Ouarzazate is a quiet, untouched only marginally from tourism, is a starting point for excursions and trips in the desert.
Tinerhir the road continues and the Gorges du Todra - trovererò there my friends?
insh'allah
are 15 km away, the game here at home, I climbed more than once in the past Todra, dust off the memories
... with a grand taxi go up to the throats, I do not recognize the road! a succession of auberge, hotel, restaurant, camping, maison d'hotes ... the taxi gets me to the gorges, alongside a hotel, I can hardly remember how it used the retreat / auberge de Mansour , the most dilapidated of Gorges of the three shelters, of those times, we have only the name.
... across the river, there is now a wooden bridge and no more kids ready to help for a few coins, they were only the ones you sell camels made with woven leaves - at a fixed price!
... later the other two historic lodges, hotels have now become;
have paved the way for a coming and going of trucks, vans, trucks , motorcycles, cars, quads and immaculate toyota tourist agencies.
... friends see me, I come to meet, Mauro look at him, and I seem to see myself in the mirror in her eyes I see the Gorges disconsolate as they were only 15 years ago.
"do not climb any more," she says, "the bolts are rusting, the lowest on the souvenir sellers have their awnings barracchette attack," and shakes his head.
... we go up the road,
behind the curve it seems to me that he saw an old woman incites his donkeys Berber full of charm, I hasten, I want to take a picture - I realize that it is only a mirage -.
... climb a bit 'in Petites Gorges, they all stopped to watch and photograph, - now a climber is a rarity in these parts, even for those who live there.
... Then dinner - still remember - just get hurt!